Multipitch Climbing on Kalymnos and Telendos

Kathi and I had not been multipitch climbing in 2021 until we visited Greece for a short trip. We had to brush up on rope management skills, route finding, rappelling and fun factor. We were fit, our movement on limestone was good, and the crowds were finally gone in late November. While in Greece we completed four climbs Regensburg, Les Copains Abord, Rita Telendos, and Platoon. Here are a few pictures of each route.

Regensburg

This was a nice seven pitch climb, with the hardest being 5c. It was a fantastic way to warm up our multipitch climbing skills, and Kathi guided me up Regensburg. For the descent we rappelled, using great raps stations and the rope pulled cleanly every time. The climb was easy to find because it is just above Sea Breeze Wall and had a five-minute approach from the road.

  1. 5b – 30m
  2. 4a – 25m
  3. An easy scramble for about 4 minutes.
  4. 5a – 25m
  5. 5b – 25m
  6. 5c – 30m
  7. 5a – 20m

Les Copains d’Abord 

This route is located at the Trois Ilots crag and had great rock, was safely bolted, and each pitch had its own character which created a varied climbing day. The view over to Telendos was fabulous, but the wind created a sense of urgency. There was no else around to cause any greater communication problems. The descent involved a cairn marked trail from the summit towards the south and was out of the wind providing extreme warmth.

1. 6a – 35m
2. 6a+ – 35m
3. Traverse 15m via rope.
4. 6a+ – 40m
5. 6a – 35m
6. 6a – 25m

Rita Telendos

Rita Telendos is on the tiny island Telendos, it was an easy hours hike from the port to the South Face. The start of the route is well-marked with blue paint, “Rita Telendos”. This route was for sure my favourite out of the four long routes we climbed. It had the longest approach which I liked, we needed to take a ferry to another island, the climb was basically straight up, the rock was clean of plants and of a good quality and there were no other people around. The descent was relatively painless and enjoyable.

  1. 4c – 20m and then traverse left for 15m.
  2. 5c – 25m
  3. 6a+ – 30m
  4. 5c – 30m
  5. 6a+ – 30m
  6. 6a+ – 30m
  7. 5c+ – 35m

Platon

This was the last route we did, as the day before it had rained and the forecast was questionable for the day we climbed it. It turned out to be a nice day, and the five pitch route was simple, fun, and engaging. It was equipped with many rappel stations and had a great variety of cool holds. Located at School Sector, the approach was a quick fifteen minutes and the descent was a simple rappel with the eighty-meter rope.

  1. 5a – 25m
  2. 5c – 25m
  3. 5b – 30m
  4. 5c+ – 30m
  5. 5a – 15m

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