Climbing at Long Dong is fantastic because of the large amount of routes, the scenic location, the quality of the stone, and the friendly climbing community make it the number one destination in Taiwan. With the Crack House being the international rock climbers place to stay and also the go-to place for information, partners and good times. Click on the link and look at their website, it has the information you need to arrive at the cliffs from Taipei. Long Dong is truly world-class and worthy of a two to three-week climbing trip. The climbing is located one hour from Taipei, which is an awesome capital city.
Long Dong has over 600 routes, with 300 bolted lines and about 300 established crack lines. There are lots of unclimbed cracks everywhere which enables the adventurous team to find new routes. There are many multipitch climbs from two pitches to five pitch link-ups. The grades are from easy scrambles to super challenging. The rock is a super solid sandstone, called szuling sandstone. It is like mix of small grained granite or mega compact quartzite with small stone pebbles on the faces and lots of cracks. There is one cave (7a-8c), and another massive overhanging amphitheatre (6a-8b+), a dedicated mid grade sport area (6c-8a), a nice canyon bolted with moderate routes (5a-7b), and a few other moderate sport crags (4c-8b). There are many beautiful soaring lines with finger cracks, comfortable hand/fist jams and uncomfortable offwidths to fun chimneys everywhere(5a-8b). The cliffs follow the coastline for a few kilometres and it is possible access from a variety of trails from the North or South entrance.
The sea cliff climbing takes on an adventurous solitude feel on windy winter days, but can also have many tourists hiking and swimming around in the summer. The bluffs are not over run with climbers but those that come out on the weekends are super enthusiastic and friendly. The local climbing community is interested in talking to visitors about other climbing areas in the world and are proud about Taiwanese culture and open to introduce the visitor to it. The urban infrastructure around Taipei allows for a variety of accommodation options (camping, climbers hostel, airbnb, hotel, homestay) and the food options in the capital city are worth the trip alone.
The guide book – Rock climbing Taiwan guide book by Matt Robertson
Arrival in Taiwan – Taipei main airport info.
What to do on rest days – Go to the cat town of Houtong or visit the tourist market in Juifen. I recommend eating the pork stuffed fried tofu triangles (not recommended for vegetarians).
What to do in Taipei – Eat the best sushi outside of Japan, because of the close culturally historic and now economic ties between the two. Some other tips are to go see Taipei 101 tower, drink bubble tea, watch the weekly rubbish pick up and eat the delicious dumplings (Xiao Long Bao).
Travelling around Taiwan – Taiwan Rail website in English