Agio Farango Gorge: Cretes great climbing secret

The most scenic place to climb in Crete is Agio Farango. This gorge  leads down to a pristine pebbled beach the sea. I visisted here for ten days in November of 2018, the weather was dry, warm (25 degrees C) and swam in the sea every day.

This gorge has routes that are suitable for beginners through to advanced. The Gorge is not very wide and there are sectors always in the shade or sun. Agio Farango has a church within and a fresh water well. It is full of old olive trees, oleander bushes and ends at a beautiful secluded bay with clean warm water.

There are 120 routes, in the range of 4 – 8c and the height of most routes between 20 and 80 meters. With about 15 crags and all the climber needs are 20 quickdraws for the climbing. The sectors are equipped with newer glue in bolts and others with expansion bolts.

There are  two big orange limestone caves that are steep and other gently overhanging walls with many tufas on  the  hard rock. For the novice climber grey less than vertical routes with jugs, teardrops, and big pockets are to found.

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