AgioFarango Gorge: Cretes great climbing secret

The most scenic place to climb in Crete is Agio Farango. This gorge  leads down to a pristine pebbled beach the sea. I visited here for ten days in November of 2018, the weather was dry, warm (25 degrees C) and swam in the sea every day.  I also spent some time sleeping peacefully in the sun as there were maybe 3 groups of day trippers through the gorge at that time of year.

Some days the greek monks/priests from nearby would come into the gorge to visit the small church.

This gorge has routes that are suitable for beginners through to advanced. The Gorge is not very wide and there are sectors always in the shade or sun. AgioFarango has a church within and a fresh water well. It is full of old olive trees, oleander bushes and ends at a beautiful secluded bay with clean warm water. The drive takes another 30 minutes after the huge church and Monastery.

There are 120 routes, in the range of 4 – 8c and the height of most routes between 20 and 80 meters. With about 15 crags and all the climber needs are 20 quickdraws for the climbing. The sectors are equipped with newer glue in bolts and others with expansion bolts. The climbing was physical and yet mostly endurance based.

 

There are  two big orange limestone caves that are steep and other gently overhanging walls with many tufas on  the  hard rock. For the novice climber grey less than vertical routes with jugs, teardrops, and big pockets are to found.

 

Climbing info for the AgioFarango Gorge – Topo PDF
The parking at the entrance to the Gorge was not so busy in November.

How to get to Crete

You can fly or take a ferry
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