Nedousa Greece

Thirty  kilometers from the Kalamata airport and the beach, is this amazing tufa paradise. There are about 150 single pitch routes, mostly in the 6b-8b range and more than half climb long tufas.

The road that winds its way up to the small mountain town of Nedousa passes solid orange, yellow, grey and black tufas, walls that face north for hot summer days and south for the cold days. There is a river that runs in the valley, and wild camping seems to be tolerated. The extensive mountain vistas are filled with abundant forests, olive groves, clean cliffs, twittering birds and lightly blowing winds.

Greece is a country with great food, friendly people, lots of warmth and great sweet shops and bakeries. The bougatsa with cream and sprinkled with cinnamon and icing sugar is a great way to start the day. The baklava is a perfect lunch time desert.  I found that the chocolate florentina were best for dinner desert.

A beautiful wilderness and nature environment but also a small rural community with olive orchards, goat and sheep herders and hiking trail network. There are some clean grey slabs to open up the hips, warm up the calves, and activate the finger strength. The short approaches and undeveloped nature of the place transported me from the overcrowded sport crags back to the days of  locals only backwater crags that no one has ever heard of or published an article about. This bring  me to the reason I have decided to share the info about Nedousa. This dreamland has the potential to be fabulous climbing destination but needs a realised development plan.




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