Greece – A climbing road trip

Climbing at Mars in Leonidio

There was a lot of hype about Leonidio and Kyparissi last year in the climbing magazines so we went to Greece in September 2017. Located about 240km (4 hours drive) from Athens, or if you take a ferry from Italy to Patras, also about 240km. With 1000 pitches promised, in and around Leonidio, we were disappointed. Most of the crags face south and were too hot to climb. There are maybe only 4 good crags with better bolted routes, higher rock quality and that had a mix of sun/shade. These top crags were Mars, Twin Caves, Elona, and La Maison Des Chervres. Sadly we quickly climbed most routes and then resorted to some days to attempt to redpoint routes above our limit.

 

Climbing at Kastraki in Kyparrisi

The climbing in Kyparrissi which is only an hour and twenty minutes from Leonidio was fantastic. There are 3 top crags Babala, Watermill and Kastraki with about 80 really good pitches. The town is tiny but secluded and the locals very friendly towards climbers. The route equippers did find nice lines to bolt, meaning the line of least resistance, and most obvious looking line but the problem is again the same problem as with Leonidio. The routes were bolted with stainless steel studs (not glue-in bolts or Titanium) and being so close to the sea there will be a major corrosion problem in the future. A free PDF can be found on Aris Theodroropoulos website.

http://climbgreece.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Kyparissi_Miniguide_2016-1.pdf

The new Greece Sport Climbing: The Best of by Aris Theodroropoulos published in 2017, highlights some stunning places to climb while in Greece and is a great reference for a fantastic road trip around Greece.

 

Climbing at The Holy Ghost in Meteora

This multipitch conglomerate area is a special spot for Greek and German climbers. The routes can be bold on lower graded climbs (4 to 6b) but above 7a the routes seem über safe. The conglomerate matrix is solid and the quartzite cobbles have great friction. The area is roughly located in the middle of the greek mainland.

 

Advertisements
%d bloggers like this: