Zucco dell’Angelone (near Lecco), Italy – Summertime moderate multi pitch adventure

Zucco dell'Angelone cliffZucco dell'Angelone sign

15 pitches 

450 meters

5c rock climbing

Zucco dell'Angelone 3-4 SperoneZucco dell'Angelone lost









Approach: Zucco dell’Angelone is 20 km north of Lecco next to the ski town of Barzio in Valsassina. Once in Barzio follow the signs to the Funivia but on the weekends parking costs 3 Euro. The climbers trail starts below the Gondola restaurant. Follow the signs to the 3rd/4th Sperone which is about a 25 minute hike on a nice trail. There are many sectors and climbing routes along the way. Do not get lost like me, even with the guide-book in my hand I spent extra time searching for this route! The start is an obvious looking grade 4c but no route name or sector name identifies the start. It is the last sector before crossing a massive scree field to Bastionata Sector.

Zucco dell'Angelone at the baseZucco dell'Angelone 1


Foto di Gruppo on Terzo Sperone

1. 4b – 30m. Up a nice crack/flake to a scooped face.

2. 4c – 30m. Climb steadily rightward on a vertical face.

3. 4c – 30m. Follow the grey rock on solid limestone.

4. 5a – 30m. Climb rightward onto a well bolted arête.

5. 4a – 40m. Traverse left and up easy terrain, you will encounter a fixed chain belay once you get to large ledge. Continue up this and belay once you see another fixed chain traversing into big shady gully on the left.

6. 3a – 60m. Walk along the Via Ferrata like chain through the gully to wall on the other side of the gully. There are 3 routes here.

Zucco dell'Angelone gulley

Gli schiavi della pietra on Quarto Sperone

SAMSUNGZucco dell'Angelone climbing

7. 6a – 35m. This shaded gully is a great spot for lunch. Start up from middle route on big pockets and cracks, then traverse into right hand route or just begin on the right most route at 5b.

8. 4c – 35m. From ledge up and left  on arête to grassy ledge.

9. 5c – 35m. Through trees on left to exposed rock.

10. 4c – 20m. Climb up easy cracks.

Zucco dell'Angelone

11. 5b – 20m. Start up the featured limestone to belay on the rock tower.

12. 5a – 20m. Cross a small gully and lead on upward.

13. 5a – 30m. Up and onto mega arête with the valley dropping way below.



14. 3b – 35m. Pull over boulder and scramble up ridge to a slung boulder belay.

15. Hike 200m. Following white and red stripe trail to the summit.

Descent: Follow white and red stripes along marked hiking trail to parking lot 40 minutes. Then drive yourself to the Gelateria for something cool and tasty. The orange and limon coni was angelic !

Gear: 60 meter rope, helmet, 12 quick draws and head lamp.

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