More Switzerland multi pitching at Gastlosen – Hallo Marco

wpid-IMG_20140610_105842.jpgGastlosen- Hallo Marco

460 meters of bolted multi pitch climbing

Gastlosen is located in the south-west corner of Switzerland near Jaun. There are lots of moderate multi pitch climbs on the south face walls and single pitch sport routes on the north side. It is at 1700 meters elevation and is clear of snow by May.

Approach: 30 minute walk from the parking lot Oberi Bire with 100 meters elevation gain.

Hallo Marco – 14 Pitches (6a)

  1. Start a long pitch  moving leftwards following new bolt hangers  arriving at 2 separate shiny new anchors. 40m (5b)wpid-IMG_20140610_092326.jpg

  2. Up nice fins and scoops to 2 separate shiny new anchors on gravel/grass. 40m (5a)wpid-IMG_20140610_092605.jpg

  3. Follow a  sticky slab to belay at a small cave, the ‘Bar’. 45m (5b)

  4. Pull over roof on massive holds and continue upwards. 45m (6a)

  5. Work your way left then right on solid rock with fantastic holds. 45m (5c+)

  6. Clean fluid climbing in a stunning situation to 2 rap anchors on a scree/grass gully. 45m (5c)

  7. Traverse from the belay across the gully to 1 anchor belay. 5m (3)

  8. Move right on fins with bridging and side pulling. 25m (5c+)

  9. Classic tufa like limestone. 25m (5b)wpid-IMG_20140610_092131.jpg

  10. Grass pitch an easy hike up clumps but no bolts. 30m (4)

  11. Back onto verticle rock with nice pinching fins. 25m (5c)

  12. Stem up the step grey bulge. 25m (6a)

  13. Grass pitch. 35m (4)

  14. Summit pitch,  on a single tower of course. Sign in the register and enjoy the summit. 30m (5b)

wpid-IMG_20140610_092804.jpg

Descent: use double 50 meter ropes to rappel to the left of the route following red arrows then down the new double anchor rap stations.

Gear: 2 – 50 meter ropes & 12 quick drawsGastlosen camping

 

 

 

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