Suggested crags and routes
Röthelfels – Devils Crack (10d, FA Kurt Albert in 1977). This is the location of the famous photo of Kurt Albert in Lederhosen. He is hanging one handed on a baseball shaped hold with a gaston and a one litre mug of beer in the other hand.
Zehnerstein – This crag has a massive piton sculpture on the pinnacle. There are some nice bolted cracks here. Nordwestkante (5.9), Kauperiss (10a), Seifertriss (10c), Toni Schmid Ged.-Weg (11b)
Bleisteine – Eraser Head (12b), Offenbarung (11d)
Richard Wagner Fels – Fight Gravity (12b), Magnet (12d), Amadeus Schwarzenegger (13b)
Grüne Hölle – Sultan of Swing (12b), Vögeln Verboten (13a), Spiderman (13b), The Man That Follows Hell (15a)
Mittelbergwand and Castellwand – There is have a small Via Ferrata take can be joined with some hiking to make a bit of fun. Direkter Kletterboumweg (10b), Kaauperkante (10b), Lila Pause (12c), XXL (13b)
Weissenstein – Boulderwandl (5.8), Panische Zeiten (11b), Dampfhammer (11d), Wilde13 (11c), Strohdach (12a)
Hartensteiner Wand – Kurzer Riss (5.7), Igor (5.8), Abkurzer (10a), Tante Gretl (10b), Mamas Boy (10c), Grufti (10d), Pimpanellas (11a), Pleasure line (11c)
Obere Schlossbergwand – Dezentraler Energiepfad (11c), Liebe ohne Chance (12d), Master Blaster (13c)
Bärenschlucht – Herkules (13a), Subway (13c), Drive by Shooting (14a)
Marientaler Wände – Trittbrettfahrer (10b), Schlaffsack (11a), Stromlinie (12d), Holyfield (13b)
Freudenhaus – Ejakulation (11d), Golden Shower Queen (5.12b)
Krottenseer Turm – Chasin the Trane (12d), Hitch-hike the Plane (13a), Wallstreet (14b)
Waldkopf – Action Directe (14d) FA Wolfgang Güllich (The first 5.14d in the world)
Burn for you – Corona (15a) The hardest route in the Frankenjura at present.
Where to stay and eat
Gasthof Eichler- in Untertrubach is the main climber’s campsite, with camping, bungalows, or apartments. Also in the morning and evenings coffee, cake, beer. There is a small shop with guide books, chalk, tape and minimal food. 7€ p.p. and showers 0.50 €/3 min.
Obertrubach has a grocery store (only 4 km from Oma Eichler camping), Café Bäckerei Muller (for great coffee and breads), Wolfgang Güllichs grave is in the church cemetery.
Zur Guten Einkehr- in Morschreuth camping 6€ p.p. and free shower. There is a restaurant that serves beer and Franconian food.
Campingplatz Bärenschlucht- 3 km from Pottenstein 11€ p.p.
Campingplatz Betzenstein- in Betzenstein (Hauptstraße 69), the most expensive 13 € p.p. has a public pool across the road. Telephone #092447305
Also Betzenstein has the best restaurant in the Frankenjura, Burghardt-Gasthof-Metzgerei (butcher) Hauptstraße 7. It is in the center of town.
Waischenfeld – in Waischenfeld more of an RV camp but next to a funky Franconian town and good crags. 1€ showers. Telephone #09202359
How to get there
Vancouver to Munich 1200$ Air Canada, Swiss, KLM, Delta, United
Vancouver to Frankfurt 1200$ Air Transat, Air Canada, KLM, Delta
Toronto to Frankfurt 1000$ American Airlines, Air France, British Airways, Delta
Toronto to Munich 1000$ United, Icelandair, KLM,
Montreal to Munich 1000$ Turkish Airlines, KLM, Delta, United, Air France
Calgary to Frankfurt 1000$ Condor
From Munich airport rent a car the drive is 2 hours. Local bus in Germany Flix bus- https://www.flixbus.de/. The bus goes from Munich airport or Frankfurt airport to Nuremberg for 15€ Nuremberg is 30 km away from Frankenjura, only 12 minutes if you drive on the autobahn. From here take a system of local public buses or train.
Summer – Nuremberg Herbst Volksfest August 29-September 14 2014
Fall –Munich Oktoberfest Sept 20- October 5 2014
Spring -Oster brunnen (Easter) April 5 2015
Rockstore in Betzenstein on Nürmberger Straße 10a – has guide books, chalk, shoes, ropes, clothes, camping fuel, harness they place has everything. Telephone 09244 982599
12 quick draws will get you up most routes
50 meter rope will do but there are a few 30 and 35 meter routes
One set of nuts and slings would be very helpful
Frankenjura Extreme (2007) by Sebastian Schwertner
Kletterführer Frankenjura Band 1 and Band 2 (reprint 2014) by Panico Verlag
TopoFührer Frankenjura (2010) by Bernhard Thum
Mini Golf Gößweinstein, 3€
Sommerrodelbahn Pottenstein 2.50€
Visit Bayreuth and the home of Richard Wagner
Visit Nuremberg to see the old city and fortifications, the Nuremberg Castle, the Germanisches Nationalmuseum, and enjoy beer gardens along the Pegnitz river.
Go swimming in one of the rivers.